DIY Bang Trims
Curtain Bang Tutorial:
Rounded/Tapered Bang Tutorial:
Straight Across Bang Tutorial:
Curly Bang Trim Tutorial
Styling Product Reccomendations
When it comes to styling your hair, the burden of options can feel overwhelming. I’ve separated the products into categories and then organized them by which is best suited for each hair type. Unsure of your hair type? See my “What is my Hair Type?” page.
BASIC OVERVIEW
(If you want to skip around on the video)
Intro
Leave In Conditioner- 1:45
Styling Cream- 2:53
Mousse- 3:25
Gel- 4:23
Oil- 5:30
How to use and apply them- 7:25
Leave In Conditioners:
Preps the hair before styling products
Lightweight moisture without any hold
Usually offer heat and UV protectant
Great for frizz, flyaways and adding shine
Damaged/Color Treated Hair
Kerastase Cicaplasme Thermique Serum
Redken Acidic Bond Builder Leave In
Fine Hair
Verb Ghost Prep Leave In Conditioner
Medium Hair
Verb Ghost Prep Leave In Conditioner
Oribe Run-Through Detangling Primer
Coarse Hair
Amika Intense Moisture Leave in Spray
Styling Creams:
Adds moisture & usually has some hold to help retain shape for styling
Great for any texture of hair
Versatile for styling options; You can air-dry or blow-dry
Fine Hair
Living Proof Thickening Blowdry Cream
Medium Hair
Malin + Goetz Sage Styling Cream
Coarse Hair
Mousses:
Add hold and volume without moisture
Can be applied to the root (for volume) or all over the hair
Straight & Wavy Hair
Curly Hair
Gels:
Offer a variety of holds depending on the desired results
Can be used all over the hair
Lightweight Gels:
Miss Jessie’s MultiCultural Clear Gel
More Hold / Definition:
Hair Oils:
Coat the cuticle to give the hair shine
Smooth flyaways and frizz
Great as a finishing product, always use last in your routine
Salt Sprays + Texture Products:
Creates lived-in texture
Adds volume
Salt Sprays:
Lightweight texture Products:
Dry Shampoos:
Absorb oil at the root to extend time between shampoos
Hair color Foundations
Welcome to the basics of Hair Coloring. Before you embark on coloring your hair at home, let’s go over what you need to know!
If you are ever unsure of what the best option for you is, please consider booking a consultation with a color specialist. Most consultations are free and you can talk through everything and come up with a plan without needing to have an appointment booked. This is a great way to pick a stylists brain about pricing, home hair care and what possibilities there are for your hair.
There is also a super handy online color consult option through Sally Beauty’s website. You can hop on virtually and they can help you pick out what you’re looking for and give you free guidance. Check it out here.
Your natural color is referring to the color that grows out of your scalp.
Virgin hair is hair that has not ever, at all, been treated with any hair color.
There are 10 naturally occurring “levels” of hair color. The “level’ refers to how dark or light your hair naturally is. Here is a visual representation. Much like when you get bleach on a pair of jeans, the darkness of the denim will determine the color of the bleached spot. A very dark black or navy denim will often turn orange and a lighter wash will turn yellow. This is also true for hair. If your hair is naturally darker (below a level 7) it will have orange undertones. If you are naturally closer to a dirty blonde, your hair will have yellow undertones. This is why it’s not realistic or achievable to go from naturally dark to very light hair in one session.
When it comes to coloring your hair there are 5 general categories of services:
-Semi Permanent: Tinted Conditioners, Manic Panic, etc. Deposits directly on to the hair, doesn’t need a developer. Lasts a few washes. Safe for home use
-Demi Permanent: Some coverage, but gently fades/softens. Picture a sheer stocking vs a legging. You can still see the natural dimension of light and dark. (Usually mixes with between a 6 and 13 volume developer) Also safe for home use
-Permanent: Matte, full coverage color. One tone without dimension. Does not fade. (20 to 30 volume developer) Dicey for home use without an established technique/advice from a stylist.
-Lightening with bleach: There is no reason, unless you want to see smoke coming off your hair, you should ever use more than a 20 volume developer with lightener at home. 40 volume= radioactive, stay away or you will look like this
-Lightening (with high lift hair color) Leave this one to the professionals, please! You will become 10 shades of * orange *
Other than using a semi permanent dye which just sits on top of the cuticle and eventually washes out, any of the listed coloring services above will chemically alter the hair. Just because you colored your hair at home 5 years ago and it faded does not mean the color is no longer in your hair. The color particles that penetrate the hair strand stay put until you physically cut those pieces out.
Hair grows on average 1/2 to 1/3 of an inch per month. So that means, depending on how long your hair is, the hair on the very ends may very well be 10 years old. If you colored your hair with a box 10 years ago, the very ends are still going to be holding that color.
Why is this important to know?
That old hair color is going to be extremely stubborn and will affect how even your hair is going to turn out, if you ever want to change it and color it in the future.
Now we’ll get into how the old box dye comes into play. Like an old curse come back to haunt you, that old color from 5 years ago will certainly make its presence known if you try to get bleach or permanent color involved.
If you apply bleach lightener over the hair with the old color, there’s a very strong possibility it will either not lighten at all or will only lighten to a deep rust/orange color no matter how many times you try to lighten it.
If you apply permanent color over the old hair color, it will layer on top and build up the pigment, causing it to look much darker than the wanted result.
Porosity
Each time a chemical service is introduced, it opens up the cuticle and makes the hair more porous. This is why If you’re bleaching or coloring all of your hair at once, the previously colored ends are going to soak up the color and your newer hair on the roots will be a different color. If you’re applying bleach all over, the very ends will soak up the toner to a nice cool tone and the roots will stay more of a yellow color. If you’re applying permanent color all over, the roots will end up lighter than the ends. Different porosity = different color results.
Test Strand
If you don’t know how a color is going to react with your hair, you can always do a test strand. This is a small (1/2 inch or so in diameter) section of hair somewhere hidden in an under section that isn’t highly visible. Mix a small amount of the color you’re going to use and paint it on to the section, wrapping it in aluminum foil to not transfer to the rest of the hair. This will give you an idea of how it will look on the rest of your head with low stakes.
Home Bleach Instructions (Proceed with Caution)
Review the basics of color page before proceeding.
Here’s the caveat to these instructions:
a) This is intended for shorter hair (above chin length.) There’s a completely different protocol for longer hair. I wouldn’t reccomend DIYing bleach with longer hair anyways without prior instruction or expertise.
b) This is for someone who has not previously colored or dyed their hair….at all. All the hair on your head is completely natural.
Your shopping list at Sally’s:
Make sure to ask the person working to help you with making these selections when you get there.
-A lightening powder (preferably tinted blue to help keep it from lifting orange)
-20 volume developer, that goes with the lightening powder
-A toner for light blonde hair and then whatever developer goes with it. (You can ask for a recommendation for this too, if you’re say going for platinum blonde, honey blonde, etc. They will be able to pick out the appropriate toner) The developer for this should NOT be 20 volume, tell them you want a semi or demi permanent toner (below 10 vol developer is appropriate.)
-2 mixing bowls
-2 color brushes
-Gloves
-Sectioning clips
-Optional but helpful- a cheap color processing cape. You can always use a beach towel or something to wrap around you too!
-Plastic Processing Cap
I’d go ahead and watch this video first to get a sense of what to expect.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i88HGPgm41U
First, prep your scalp- Put a good layer of vaseline around the hairline/on and around the ears. This will give it a little barrier from the bleach. This is a little goofy but I personally also add a large piece of seran wrap over my ears too. Once you see how the color is applied, it will make more sense. Our ears are sensitive!
1. Put on gloves!
2. Put on your protective gear (either just wrapped in a towel or wearing a cape with a towel over it around the shoulders)
You'll get your bowl, add maybe two scoops of powder in, and then add your 20 vol in developer a little bit at a time, mixing with your color brush. You'll want it thinner than toothpaste, but not super liquidy. Somewhere in between is perfect!
Section the hair out into 4 quadrants.
Because the heat from your scalp will speed up processing time significantly, you’ll start by brushing the bleach from the ends up, leaving an inch of hair closest to your scalp out. Work in quarter inch sections (with the pointy end of your color brush or a tail comb) from just above the ear (for the front 2 sections) and just above the hairline (for the back 2 sections) up to the top of the section that’s closer to the top of your head.
Make sure it's evenly saturated on all of the ends.
It's probably going to be itchy- itchy is normal, some discomfort is normal, however if he feels like it's too painful or needs to rinse it- That is OK, always listen to your body. Hopefully less so on the first round as you’ll be leaving it off the scalp.
To help it seal in the heat and process faster, and also keep it from making a mess, I use a handy little plastic grocery bag as a processing cap. You can put it on once the bleach is applied and you can tie the handles at the front like a chic little turban.
Check on it every 10 mins- there is no specific time frame, you'll want to just watch it until it gets past orange and becomes yellow. (usually 25 mins is appropriate, but may be a little longer. I wouldn't leave it on past 40 mins.) Once the ends are light enough, you’re going to go ahead and shampoo and condition. Don’t worry about the roots being left out, you’re going to do another round of lightener after this all over.
Rinse all of the bleach out and thoroughly shampoo it (purple shampoo is best!) with COOL WATER- your head is going to be itchy and this will feel better. You can even shampoo twice, you just need to make sure you get all of it out. Follow with conditioner.
Next, You’ll blow-dry all of the hair to be 100% dry.
Using the same mixing instructions, go ahead and mix another bowl of the lightening powder and developer.
Section into 4 quadrants and repeat steps 1 and 2 above.
Continuing to work in small sections at a time, brush the bleach on from scalp down all the way to the ends. Make sure you’re using more than enough and not to leave any spots out. If the bleach starts to dry out, add more developer.
Once your whole head is coated, check every 10 minutes. Don’t let it sit any longer than 40 minutes. Repeat shampoo/conditioner instructions.
Blow dry it completely dry and then mix up your toner w/ associated the developer in your second bowl. The instructions for mixing the developer and toner should be on the bottle. If it says "equal parts" just try to eyeball and get the as close as possible to equal parts toner and developer or use a food scale. It will be more liquidy than the bleach was. Apply it on all of the hair with the color brush. It usually sits for about 15 mins. Then shampoo & condition in the shower.
For follow up care- Try to avoid super hot water, it'll strip the toner out and make it yellow faster!
Color safe, sulfate/paraben free hydrating shampoo/conditioner during the week, use purple shampoo 1X week
If your scalp is tender- I like to make a little dropper bottle of some sort of scalp oil to massage in. You can either DIY it (I like a thin oil like almond oil w/ a little bit of tea tree) or buy one!
Consider using a thick hair mask 1X a week to add moisture back in.
See my product recommendations page for some ideas of what to buy.
Good Luck!
Hairstylist Referrals
As bummed as I’ll be to not see you, I know you’ll be in capable hands! There are so many talented stylists in the area who will take great care of you. I’ll link to their websites and portfolios so you can see whose style, price point and availability works best for you.
Other Stylists: Please email me if you’re looking for clients and want me to add you!
Chapel Hill/ Carrboro
*Top Rec* To the Woods Salon: You can see anyone here & they are all amazing!
Durham
Michelle Pardo (Folks with curls, check her out!)
Raleigh
Home Root Retouch
This might seem scary, but don’t worry. You can do this! If your hair is growing at a frequency that is causing you to see those roots more quickly than is reasonable for you to come in the salon, I’m going to give you the tools you need to do it yourself. You can always spot cover where it’s visible (on your hairline & temples) between appointments.
What you’ll need:
You can get all of this at Sally Beauty or order online
Color & Correlating Developer
From your House:
You can always change into a button down shirt or robe before starting, so that when you go to rinse in the shower you don’t have to pull your shirt over your head and risk getting it stained. Remember, it will be covered with a cape! You can also forgo the cape and just wear an old shirt.
Clorox Bleach Spray & Paper Towels (If you’re doing the color in your bathroom for any drops of color that get on the counter, spray them as soon as you see them so they don’t set in and stain)
Vaseline (To cover your hairline so you don’t get color stains on your skin)
Optional: plastic grocery bag- a chic way to keep your hair from dripping color after you apply it. Make yourself an elegant garbage’ cap!
DIRECTIONS:
I always go ahead and clear any bathroom rugs off the floor or anything porous that can’t be wiped off. Give yourself a clean surface to work on in the bathroom and keep your spray bleach handy for any color droplets. You can always lay down an old beach towel under you and on the counter if you want to be on the safe side!
Using either vaseline or a thicker oil (like castor oil), apply to the tops of your ears and about half an inch underneath your hairline. This will protect you from any chemical damage and also keep your hairline from staining.
Check the mixing instructions to see what the ratio of color to developer is. You can use a food scale to measure or visually approximate. For example, if the ratio is 1:1, you’ll do equal amounts of both the color and the developer. Also check the processing time for the color you’re using. Note: The color will oxidize and time out. It will NOT continue to get darker with more time, it also won’t absorb better or hold longer with extended processing time. It doesn’t hurt to leave it on longer, but there isn’t necessarily a benefit. Most color is a 20-30 minute processing time.
Section your hair into 4 sections, using your sectioning clips. This may be difficult if your hair is shorter, but making smaller sections will keep you organized.
Wrap a smaller/darker towel around your neck and then layer your cape over top of it.
Apply your gloves
Mix the color with the developer per mixing instructions in the color bowl. You can use the color brush to mix them together to an even consistency.
Working in quarter inch sections, paint the color only on the new growth. As much as you can, try to avoid overlapping it on the already colored hair.
Watch this video so you can see a visual and step by step instructions!
Once you’ve worked all the way around your head, you can put a plastic grocery bag on and use the handles to tie the front to tighten into a cute little bonnet.
After the processing time (Typically 30 minutes) you’ll get in the shower, rinse thoroughly, shampoo and condition! You did it!
What is my Hair Type?
A BASIC OVERVIEW:
What is my hair type?
The words Fine, Medium, Coarse are referring to the diameter of the individual strands of your hair. When you hold an individual strand of your hair is it very skinny like a piece of thread or more coarse and thick like a piece of twine? Maybe somewhere in between?
The Density refers to how many hairs per square inch are on your scalp. This is often what people think of when they say they have “thin hair” or “thick hair.” It’s the amount of hair you have on your head. Low density means less hair per square inch (maybe even seeing scalp,) medium density is somewhere between, high density means a lot of hair per square inch (no visible scalp.)
Next, the words Straight, Wavy, Curly, Coily, Kinky refer to the shape in which the strands grow from your head. Here’s a visual representation if you’re unsure of what category you fall under.
Styling & Diffusing Curls
Switching from a harsher shampoo over to something more gentle so that your pH on your scalp stays balanced is important. Most shampoo strips our natural oils. If you have any texture in your hair it's more prone to being dry and fragile. Don’t be afraid of over doing it with the moisture, your hair will likely soak it up like a sponge. Switching to a gentler hydrating cleanser is a great place to start. Make sure it’s sulfate, paraben, and silicone free. Many products are packed with fillers and junk that put a film on our hair and feel great in the short term, but leave build up and can actually dry our hair out over time. Depending on your hair type, I find it’s good to use a gentle cleanser a majority of the time and then periodically (either weekly, or twice a month) use a cleanser that has more cleansing and clarifying properties. You could always use a spray in root refresh cleanser between wash days too, this one is great!
When cleansing, or even if it’s not wash day and you’re just rewetting with water, make sure to really massage your fingers at your scalp and scrub vigorously to remove any build up. It’s a bit more labor intensive to use a cleanser that doesn’t “suds up” like we’re used to, but it’s well worth the extra effort. You can also use a palm brush to help break through build up too. Click here for some helpful Co-Washing tips. Remember that part of having good scalp health is also making sure your scalp can breathe. It’s important to make sure your scalp is being cleansed regularly.
You'll want to do the bulk of your detangling in the shower, either with a wide tooth comb or a wetbrush when you're using your conditioner. You can also pre-brush it dry before getting in the shower with a boar bristle brush, or something with the teeth closer together than the wide comb. This will help the process along. (It will get loose hairs out, stimulate your scalp and speed up the detangling process)
Once you're out of the shower, you'll use your fingers or a brush for curly styling like the Denman to comb through your hair and start setting the shape where you’ll want it to dry. The wetter and more saturated your hair is, the better. If you even want to keep a big spray bottle full of water handy for when you get out of the shower, go for it. Mist it down until you see the curl families grouping together. Use your either your microfiber towel or a t-shirt to lightly scrunch some of the moisture out, do not rub the towel on your head, or be rough with your curls!
Once it has been detangled, it’s time to apply your product. There are a lot of different directions you can go with your product depending on your hair density, how defined you like your curls, what curl pattern you have, etc. So this may take some trial and error to find what best suits you. Be careful to find products that aren’t too thick or heavy for your hair.
I typically tend to gravitate towards things that are creamier/moisturizing as a first step, but it’s totally up to you. You could either use a leave-in conditioner, which will be lightweight and not offer much hold or definition. Or you could find a curl cream that offers moisture and usually some level of hold. Depending on your hair, you may to use a mousse or gel layered on top of the leave-in or the curl cream. Oil is always a last step, as it seals the cuticle. If you layer other products on top, they won’t be able to penetrate the hair strand and get in.
Start with about a walnut size amount of product in your palm and rub your hands together like you’re applying lotion. Then you’ll start at the bottom and rake it up with your hands up to the top. This way you’ll have less product on your hands by the time you make your way to your scalp, to avoid build-up or feeling weighted down. Do this all the way around your head making sure it's distributed evenly. If you want to section off parts of your hair and comb the product through to make sure it is applied evenly, that would be great.
Now it is time to let it dry. This can either be with the diffuser to help speed up the air drying process, or you can let it dry naturally. Remember that as the shape is forming you’ll only want to be touching it in ways that encourage the curl, not disturb it. It is still going to setting the shape when it’s almost dry. Do not run your fingers through it, brush, comb, or pull the curl out until it is completely dry.
If you have trouble getting curl through certain areas of your head, you can hand twist some of those pieces and scrunch them to help get more curl in the areas that are a little looser.
Whether you are diffusing or air drying, you’ll want to start getting it off of your scalp if you want to get volume. While you are scrunching, turn your head sideways, upside down, tilting forward, etc.
This video has lots of helpful tips for air-drying!
Another option if you want to get some volume and get it out of the way is to very loosely gather your hair in a pile on top of your head (being mindful to not disturb the curls, so do not pull or secure this tightly) and wrap it in either a t-shirt or a microfiber towel. This can also function as a protective style while you’re sleeping to keep your hair from tangling. A silk cap or silk pillowcase couldn't hurt- anything you can do to prevent friction and roughing the cuticle while you sleep is great.
Once it's dry I mean dry (completely dry!) you can use your fingers to start breaking through the product cast if you want to soften to definition a bit. Shake it out!
If you start to see frizz throughout the day or slept on it and need to re-style:
1. Use your spray bottle! You can make yourself a curl refreshing mist. Fill with water, a pea sized amount of conditioner and/or curl cream and any essential oils you want for a nice aroma. Shake it up and mist it down and re-scrunch! Easy
2. Put a dime size amount of your curl cream in your hand, run it under the sink, lather your hands together to mix them and re-scrunch
Diffusing and Styling
Here are some videos to refer to!
Styling curly bangs
I’ve attached a few videos below for visual reference on styling curly bangs!
Healthy Hair and Scalp
If you’re wanting to build and maintain habits that promote healthy hair as well as a healthy scalp, I’ve got you! covered. Whether your goal is length, hydration, addressing scalp concerns, or just wanting the best out of your hair, below are some general guidelines to refer to.
If you see frizz or flyaways, picture a little plant reaching up to the sky for water. There are a few main culprits when it comes to frizzy hair and these are damage, humidity/weather and genetics. How moisturized your hair is in the first place will also play into the frizziness.
What actually causes frizz is a lack of moisture. And when your strands are lacking in moisture, they try to absorb it from the air. This only exacerbates the frizziness – and this also explains why, when the air is humid, your hair can look even frizzier. This is not a value judgement, smooth hair is not the preferred option. It’s just a matter of looking out for the health of your stands.
There are competing opinions about how often one should wash their hair. I’m personally in the camp of using your own discretion. Yes- folks with dense, curly and/or coarse hair may not feel the need to wash as often as the oils are either being absorbed into the hair or just take longer to reach the surface than someone with fine and/or straight hair. Maybe not the popular opinion, but your scalp is an extension of the skin on your face, and just like you wash your face, you should also cleanse your scalp. If you do have finer hair, you may find that washing daily works for you. That’s cool with me as long as you’re using a gentle shampoo without any harsh or stripping ingredients. Periodically, it’s good to use something more deep cleansing to remove any product build up, dandruff, etc. I typically say use something gentle most of the week and then alternate to something more “clarifying” either weekly or every other week. Refer to my product recommendations for options for your hair type.
When using your cleanser or shampoo, remember to only apply and massage it into the roots and don’t distribute it through the ends. For conditioner, you’ll do the opposite. As a rule, you’ll apply conditioner from the chin down. Obviously do the best you can and it’s not always possible to not overlap. especially if your hair is short.
Brushing your hair and scalp is a great way to remove build up and loose strands, distribute scalp oil to the ends and promote growth. You’ll want to use a brush with fine natural bristles that are close together. You can get a “boar bristle” brush, which are amazing, but there are cheaper vegan alternatives as well. Here’s a video with some techniques for reference.
Rosemary oil as well as Tea Tree oil are both anti inflammatory, stimulating and anti fungal. When applied to the scalp, they can promote new growth as well as help with dry scalp and dandruff. You can apply all over from a dropper and massage it in. I like to do this on the day I know I’m going to wash, I’ll do this about an hour before getting in the shower and leave in on like a mask. Shampoo and condition as usual afterwards. I do this once a week. Note: Apply only Rosemary and Tea Tree oil that is diluted or formulated for hair and scalp.
There are some scalp concerns that can be treated at home, but there are some that need the attention of a dermatologist. Tiny particles that fall out when you brush or massage your hair is typically just dandruff. Mild itching is normal, but non stop intense itching could be a sign of something else. If you’ve been applying conditioner to your roots or continuing to add product without brushing or washing your hair, it could be the irritation of product build up and clogged pores. If you have painful, raised, bloody, scaly, yellow embedded, larger flakes it could be either a fungal infection, something auto immune, or allergy related. The best plan is to seek a professional opinion and get a treatment regimen specific to you.
Hair is the most fragile when wet. Out of the shower, avoid tightly wrapping your hair in a towel or pulling it back with an elastic. Gently use your fingers or a wide tooth comb to detangle your hair. Microfiber towels are best for preventing damage and breakage. Even claw clips can damage and put tension on the your hair if fastened too tightly. If you’re going to pull it back wet, do so loosely with a silk and loose scrunchy or a scarf or gently wrap in a towel. Only use a fine tooth comb or brush when your hair is completely dry. Try to plan your night shower to leave enough time for your hair to dry before bed.
Silk pillowcases are a great option for reducing friction and tangling while you sleep. They also keep your evening skin care from being rubbed off. All around a great investment!
For dry, damaged and thirsty hair. A hair mask to use weekly will help. You’ll apply on damp or dry hair, raking it from the ends up, avoiding the scalp. You can leave it on for 15 minutes or even longer. I follow the same procedure as the Rosemary oil. I do this about an hour before a shower when I’m going to shampoo my hair. I do this before the shower, as the hair is more porous when dry/damp and will absorb the mask better than if the hair is saturated with water. You can also do the hair mask in the shower, I would just squeeze as much water out as you can before applying and make sure to let it full absorb and sit before rinsing.
Shampoo & Conditioner Recommendations
Choosing what product or combination of products makes sense for you and your hair can be overwhelming. I’ve created a detailed list of product recommendations for each specific hair type at varying price points to take some of the stress out of the process.
A BASIC OVERVIEW:
What is my hair type?
When I use the words Fine, Medium, Coarse, this is referring to the diameter of the individual strands of your hair. When you hold an individual strand of your hair is it very skinny like a piece of thread or more coarse and thick like a piece of twine? Maybe somewhere in between?
The Density refers to how many hairs per square inch are on your scalp. This is often what people think of when they say they have “thin hair” or “thick hair.” It’s the amount of hair you have on your head. Low density means less hair per square inch (maybe even seeing scalp,) medium density is somewhere between, high density means a lot of hair per square inch (no visible scalp.) Click here for a visual.
Next, the words Straight, Wavy, Curly, Coily, Kinky refer to the shape in which the strands grow from your head. Here’s a visual representation if you’re unsure of what category you fall under.
Shampoo & Conditioner:
As a rule, you’ll want to look for the words sulfate, paraben & silcone free. Is there a difference in buying a Salon Quality product vs something at Target or TJ Maxx? Yes! No judgment, of course. Though the brand name may be the same, the ingredients are not- hence the difference in price. Typically what you’re going to get at a lower price has a lower concentration of quality ingredients and more “fillers” that coat your hair. This can make it feel so shiny and great at first, but over time create build up that coats the strands and keeps the good stuff out (like leave in conditioners & moisture treatments.) These shampoos also typically have harsh detergents that take all of the oil from your scalp, stripping it of the oils necessary to maintain a balanced scalp. This sends the SOS signal to your scalp to produce more oil- then you’re stuck washing every day and the cycle continues. Considering that your shampoo and conditioner are the products your hair and scalp most come in contact with, it’s worth spending a little extra to invest in something with quality ingredients. This is my venture into ingredient based research, I have done some digging and found some good options that won’t send you into bankruptcy.
As I mentioned in my Scalp Health post, shampoo is always applied just to the roots and should not be lathered through the ends! As much as you can help it, I know it’s difficult to do with shorter hair. The rule is chin up only for shampoo, below chin only for conditioner. The ends are much more dry, porous and fragile than the roots and don’t need to be cleansed. And the same is true in reverse for the scalp, it’s already producing those oils you need and applying conditioner on the scalp can clog your follicles and is not necessary.
SHAMPOO
FINE/LOW DENSITY/STRAIGHT + SLIGHTLY WAVY HAIR:
Malin + Goetz Peppermint Shampoo
Kerastase Bain Densite Shampoo
Flamingo Estate Rosemary & Bergamot Shampoo
FINE/LOW DENSITY/WAVY + CURLY HAIR
Malin + Goetz Moisturizing Shampoo
Briogeo Don’t Despair, Repair Shampoo
MEDIUM/MEDIUM DENSITY/STRAIGHT + WAVY HAIR
Crown Affair The Ritual Shampoo
Fatboy Daily Hydrating Shampoo
Oribe Brilliance and Shine Shampoo
MEDIUM+COARSE/MEDIUM DENSITY/WAVY + CURLY HAIR
Briogeo Don’t Despair, Repair Shampoo
COARSE/HIGH DENSITY/WAVY + CURLY+ COILY HAIR
CurlSmith Essential Moisture Cleanser
Act + Acre Curl Cleanse Shampoo
Miss Jessie’s No Suds Cleanser
CONDITIONER
FINE/LOW DENSITY/STRAIGHT + SLIGHTLY WAVY HAIR:
Malin + Goetz Cilantro Conditioner
Ceremonia Weightless Hydration Conditioner
Kerastase Densifique Conditioner
FINE/LOW DENSITY/WAVY + CURLY HAIR
MEDIUM/MEDIUM DENSITY/STRAIGHT + WAVY HAIR
Fatboy Daily Hydrating Conditioner
MEDIUM+COARSE/MEDIUM DENSITY/WAVY + CURLY HAIR
Curlsmith Essential Moisture Conditioner
Mr.Smith Hydrating Conditioner
Innersense Hydrating Conditioner
COARSE/HIGH DENSITY/WAVY + CURLY+ COILY HAIR
Amika Intense Moisture Conditioner
Hair Loss and Shedding
If you’ve found yourself here, I want to say wholeheartedly that I know how difficult and scary it feels to go through any sort of significant hair loss. Especially when the root of the cause is so unclear. Ironically, stress can be a significant underlying factor. Yet, there’s nothing more stressful than finding clumps of hair coming out in the brush or the shower. Let’s get into it, hopefully I can give you some helpful resources or some next steps.
UNDERLYING CAUSES
Sometimes it can seem like you’re seeing a lot of hair in the drain, but it’s just actually a back log of shedding. Especially for curly and wavy folks who aren’t brushing their hair outside of detangling out of the shower. The hairs can be falling out at a normal rate and get stuck, causing a buildup of loose strands. Then each shower it seems like a significant amount. To mitigate this, see my curly hair refresh section in my styling curly hair section to see how to incorporate brushing into your routine without compromising the look and style of the curls.
Sometimes the hair shedding is a visible symptom when there’s something going on we can’t see. Here are some general categories to look into:
-Medication
-Stress/Trauma
-Hormones
-Genetics
-Autoimmune
It’s good to eliminate the big and scariest first. I always say to get bloodwork checked first just to make sure everything looks okay. Sometimes a vitamin deficiency can cause shedding and cause the hair to be brittle and weak. Next, body chemistry can be playing a part too. Usually around every 10 years we have a complete turn over and regeneration of cells in our body. Not to mention, hormones can be a big contributor as well. I’d also encourage getting hormones checked. Unfortunately, the research and information available regarding hormones is limited. But it couldn’t hurt to gather as much information as possible.
The location and amount of shedding can be a good indicator too. It’s always good to get the advice of a dermatologist.
Can I do anything externally/topically?
Yes. There are certainly things you can do in the meantime.
Stimulating the scalp can stimulate blood flow and promote new growth. A good brushing and scalp ritual can not only help with growth but can also be a great way to release stress and tension. This will also ensure that any clogged follicles are exfoliated and scalp buildup is removed. See my scalp health page for more information.
It couldn’t hurt to incorporate a good multi vitamin as well as a vitamin specific to skin and care like Biotin and Collagen. You can also add a Collagen supplement to your daily routine in powder form to add to your coffee, smoothies, etc.
Minoxidil (generic for Rogaine) does have proven efficacy, I’ve personally had great results. I would opt for the 5% in the spray form, it distributes easily and absorbs well. Order here.
Rosemary oil might smell great and provide a tingly scalp sensation, but the research doesn't necessarily back the claim that this actually promotes new growth.
As much as you can, do things that regulate your nervous system and try to manage your stress. I know that’s easier said than done, but a movement practice, mindful breathing, fresh air, and grounding rituals go a long way.
A Good Brushing Ritual
One of the best things you can do for your scalp to promote new growth is establishing a good hair brushing routine. There are so many benefits to brushing your hair including distributing scalp oil to the ends, gathering and removing loose hairs, keeping tangling managed and removing scalp build up. Not to mention all of the pressure points on the scalp and the mental health benefit of having a self care practice.
The skin cells on our scalp are constantly turning over and accumulating, just like the skin on the rest of our body. They can unfortunately get stuck and begin to build up when the scalp is left un cared for.
As I mentioned in my healthy hair and scalp post, you’ll want to use a brush that has natural bristles that are fairly close together. There’s the classic “boar bristle” brush as well as some vegan alternatives that work just as well. I’ve linked those at the bottom of this page.
Here is a video for visual reference as well as technique.
You’ll start from the ends, working your way up to the scalp in sections. Then in circular motions, work your way around your scalp, taking extra care and time on each section.
But what if you have curly hair?
The rule curly folks hear over and over is whatever you do DON’T BRUSH! I mean yes, in some contexts, this is true. For example, when setting up the curls to dry with the style and definition you’re wanting (after the initial detangling and shape setting out of the shower) you certainly do NOT want to brush or do anything to disrupt the curl pattern. There’s more on this in my styling curly hair section. But then when can you brush?
2 scenarios come to mind, depending on your hair type and your routine.
1) You can do this full brush routine shortly before showering (Not on wash day, but on a shower between wash days when you’re planning on re wetting your hair.) Our hair is the most fragile when wet, so going ahead and pre-detangling dry already sets you up for less work in the shower. This also gives you a head start on removing any loose hairs that have gotten stuck throughout the week. This is also a good time to apply a hair mask to the ends, let that absorb while you work the brush around your scalp.
2) The refresh method: You can go ahead and do a brushing routine, your hair will be nice and fluffy (not a bad thing, personal preference is up to the individual, I love brushed out curls personally) and then just rewet your hair with a spray bottle or the bathtub/shower head. The brushing will act as a mini-cleanse for your scalp as you’ll have gently removed buildup and distributed oil from your scalp to the ends. See my styling curly hair for more info on refreshing/re styling your curls.